White Wine Grape Varieties
Rkatsiteli
White Wine Grape Varieties
Rkatsiteli
Rkatsiteli, whose name means “red stem” (rka=vine cane; tsiteli=red) is the leading white grape variety in Georgia, comprising 43% of all vineyard plantings across 20,000 hectares. The time of its origin is uncertain, but is native to Kakheti in eastern Georgia and is cultivated throughout the province, as well as in Kartli. Rkatsiteli is favored by growers because it is less finicky as to site, and can achieve relatively high sugars while retaining its acidity; contemporary bottlings easily can have 13% alcohol by volume. It is arguably most expressive when grown on the northwestern part of the Alazani Valley in the Akhmeta-Ikalto zone, in the villages of Kondoli, Tsinandali, Kisiskhevi, Vazisubani and Mukuzani.
Rkatsiteli’s cylindrical, medium-sized bunches contain medium-sized, oval berries; when dry-farmed, the grapes acquire a pinkish-yellow hue. Late-budding (the end of April) and late-maturing (early October, after Mtsvane Kakhuri), for vitis vinifera, Rkatsiteli is relatively resistant to downy mildew when grown in Kakheti; it is less resistant in the western, more humid regions. A hardy vine, it can withstand most winter frosts.
Rkatsiteli is produced through both traditional and European vinification methods, and is the principal grape in most Kakhetian white wines. Because Rkatsiteli has relatively quiet aromatics, is is often blended with 15-20 percent Mtsvane Kakhuri, such as for the PDOs Gurjaani, Tsinandali, and Vazisubani to add high-toned aromatics and to soften the resulting wine. When vinified in the European style, Rkatsiteli offers subtle floral aromas with notes of citrus, quince, and apple. If vinified in qvevri, the wine typically is more powerful, moderately tannic, with crisp acidity; the oxidative handling elicits flavors of honey, dried orange peel, spices, apricot and other stone fruits. Rkatsiteli is predominantly vinified in a dry style, but it is also a core grape variety in the PDO Kardenakhi, a fortified wine, and is suitable for all styles of wine. Georgians also serve Rkatsiteli as a table grape. As of 2014, there are over 20,000 hectares of Rkatsiteli planted in Georgia.
Mtsvane Kakhuri
White Wine Grape Varieties
Mtsvane Kakhuri
Literally, “green Kakheti,” and commonly referred to simply as “Mtsvane,” Mtsvane Kakhuri is one of six different Mtsvane variations that grow throughout Georgia, each with a different DNA fingerprint, and each named for the origin of its growth. Thought to be older than Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane Kakhuri’s five-lobed leaves are dark green and funneled; the medium-sized bunches can be quite dense, sometimes with one shoulder and medium-sized berries.
The variety buds late, usually in late April and matures in the mid-season, in the last two weeks of September, before Rkatsiteli. It is an easy bunch to pick. It accumulates sugar easily yet retains high acidity levels, hence its suitability for sweet, fortified wines. Yields are generous, though the vine is very susceptible to powdery mildew, and is regarded as sensitive to its environment, demanding attentive cultivation. It is, however, relatively impervious to winter frosts. Mtsvane Kakhuri grows well on the calcareous soils in Kakheti, southeastern Georgia, particularly in the appellations of Tsinandali, Manavi, Gurdjaani, Vazisubani and Kardenakhi.
When vinified in a European style, the young dry, white wine often has a greenish- straw tinge. Mtsvane Kakhuri imparts fresh white peach, floral, citrus and tropical aromas, with a light mineral undertone. It is quite dark and will show more apricot and stone fruit character when vinified in qvevri. An aromatic variety, it oxidizes easily, and unless vinified in qvevri, it requires sensitive anaerobic handling. Alternatively, it may be blended with a percentage of Kisi or Rkatsiteli; Mtsvane Kakhuri adds aromatic high tones and complexity, the other varieties inhibit oxidation.
Mtsvane Kakhuri is a solo performer in the PDO Manavi, a dry white wine the region of the same name in Kakheti. Up to 20% of Mtsvane Kakhuri may be blended with Rkatsiteli for the classic Tsinandali PDO. Mtsvane Kakhuri also may have a small part in fortified wines such as Kardenakhi. It is also suitable as a table grape. There were 249 hectares planted as of 2004.
Khikhvi
White Wine Grape Varieties
Khikhvi
The origins of Khikhvi’s name are unknown and not hypothesized, but it grows widely in eastern Georgia, especially in Kakheti it originated. Most plantings are on the East-Southeast reaches of the province, on the right bank of the Alazani River. The vine sports large leaves, which are three-lobed, circular and almost round. Its medium-sized bunches are conical, winged, and somewhat loose, with medium-sized, greenish-yellow, thin-skinned berries. Budburst occurs in the first half of April and matures in September. An early ripener, it is recommended for higher-altitude, cooler mountain plantings. Along with Mtsvane Kakhuri , Khikhvi is the other Georgian variety most susceptible to powdery mildew, though it is resistant to spider mites.
Khikhvi is relatively versatile, as it can be produced in light dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and, as in PDO Kardenakhi, fortified styles. Its aromatic signature is distinctive: floral notes of boxwood and wild flowers heighten broader flavors of ripe yellow fruits and apricot. The light wines appear both in European and qvevri versions; the latter wines accentuate the dried fruit and flower character. With moderate alcohol levels and soft acidity, Khikhvi may stand alone as a single varietal wine, or may contribute high-tones to enhance a blend. It is a grape that deserves greater attention.
Khikhvi also grows in Kartli. Nationwide, there was only one hectare in production in Georgia as of 2004.
Kisi
White Wine Grape Varieties
Kisi
Kisi is indigenous to Kakheti. Notwithstanding the high quality of wine it can produce, it became almost extinct by the 2000, a result of the Soviet preference for Rkatsiteli and the decline of Georgian vineyard land following the Soviet collapse. Further, it is bit trickier to grow. Fortunately, some 50-60 year old vines still exist in the Telavi district, with more being planted. A late-budding variety, Kisi is relatively resistant to frost, drought and downy mildew, but susceptible to powdery mildew and black rot. It ripens before Rkatsiteli, typically in the last 2 weeks of September, and is made both in the European and Georgian manner. Occasionally it is fortified. A straw-colored wine when produced in the European style, the nose is quite floral with flavors of pear, citrus and green tea on the palate; the amber qvevri wines reveal more apricot, mango, lime, orange and walnut character. Some producers believe it to be capable of producing finer, more expressive wines than Rkatsiteli.
There were 20 hectares planted as of 2004, all on family farms, of which 18 lie in the Akhmeta district of Kakheti. Earlier commentators believed Kisi to be a younger variety than Rkatsiteli, but in fact the evidence to support this is insufficient.
Chinuri
White Wine Grape Varieties
Chinuri
Iv. Javakhishvili, an early 20th Century historian, argued that Chinuri’s name derives the old Georgian word “chini” (reddish-green), but commentators now contend it comes the Georgian word “chinebuli” meaning “excellent” or “the best” in this instance referring to the grapes superb appearance, color, and flavor. Indeed, some producers even call the variety “Chinebuli.” Regardless, when ripe, the grapes do blush a red-yellow-green.
Originating in Kartli, but also grown in Kakheti, Chinuri has a three-lobed leaf; its cylindrical bunches often have one very large wing. The vine is comparatively resistant to fungal diseases (especially powdery mildew) and chlorosis, and is less susceptible to frost than many other indigenous varieties. Not being particularly fussy as to site, it grows well diverse soils and locations, whether in alluvial or stony soils, on steep slopes or the plains. It is high yielding and a medium-late ripener, with budburst in mid-April and maturation in early October. The skin detaches very easily its juicy flesh.
With its naturally high acidity, Chinuri is most famous for the sparkling PDO Atenuri wine, which may include Goruli Mtsvane or Aligoté in the assemblage. Harvested a week or two later, Chinuri also is made as a still wine, with moderate alcohol levels and crisp acidity, whether fermented in qvevri or tank. When produced anaerobically (in sparkling wines or European-style still wines), Chinuri has floral and herbal aromas, including hints of mint, pear and other yellow fruits. Chinuri qvevri is tannic and muskier, with flavors of dried pears and apricots laced with a slightly more concentrated herbal complexity. The grapes alone also graces many tables in season. There were 955 hectares in production as of 2004.
