Red Wine Grape Varieties
Usakhelouri
Red Wine Grape Varieties
Usakhelouri
Literally, the “grape with no name,” Usakhelouri is indigenous to western Georgia. Early 20th century historian Javakhishvili noted it was name for a village of the same name that was located on the right bank of the Lakanuri River in Lechkhumi. It is also known by the name Okureshuli, for a different small village (also in Lechkhumi). Some of the vine’s characteristics – very small berries, unequal berry size, uneven ripening, have led some to theorize that the vine is botanically and genetically similar to the wild vines of the area. Most plantings of Usakhelouri remain in Lechkhumi, though there have been recent plantings in Kakheti. Usakhelouri vines in Imereti were largely grubbed up in the late Soviet period.
Usakhelouri produces best on loamy, calcareous hillsides such as those in Racha-Lechkhumi. The leaves typically have three distinct lobes. Bunches are medium-sized and dense, more cylindrical than conical, occasionally winged. Berries are round and black but with a bloom that imparts a violet tinge. It buds early (in Racha-Lechkhumi, in the first ten days of April) and ripens relatively late (in the end of September). The grape skin is thin and detaches easily the flesh, but is highly susceptible to fungal diseases. ver it is planted, it can accumulate high sugars easily and retain high acidity.
Usakhelouri currently is produced both in qvevri and in neutral open-top containers, with no new wood maturation. The latter method generates a vibrant, high-toned nose of lilacs, violets, mint and pepper; the palate is similarly high-toned and peppery with very high acidity, light tannins and sometimes a feral note. There were 57 hectares planted as of 2004, of which 49 hectares were in the Gurjaani district of southwest Kakheti and 8 in the Tsageri district of Racha-Lechkhumi. All are family holdings.
Chkhaveri
Red Wine Grape Varieties
Chkhaveri
A western Georgian variety, Chkhaveri is mostly planted near the Black Sea coast in Adjara and especially in Guria, but also in Imereti. The origins of its name are obscure, though it is posited that the name refers to physical formation of the vine or its climbing nature. Chkhaveri originally was a maghlari wine, a vine trained to grow up trees. This pinkish-violet variety is rather sensitive to site and its methods of cultivation; especially susceptible to downy mildew, and with very thin skins, it generally needs careful vineyard attention to generate quality fruit. It grows particularly well on cooler, south-facing hillsides with limestone soils; more humid, lower altitude sites present a constant risk of fungal infection. Given the relative warmth of the climate, frost is rarely an issue Chkhaveri is cultivated. The bunches are small and thin, but can be dense with one wing; yields are small. Chkhaveri ripens quite late (in Guria, in the second half of November) and care must be taken to prevent botrytis. It can reach very high sugar levels while retaining fresh, brisk acidity, allowing for remarkable versatility. Alcohol levels are always moderate. Regardless of whether the wine is still or sparkling, dry or semi-sweet, Chkhaveri wines are vibrant pink, fresh flavors of red berries, cherries, forest fruits and baking spices. The naturally semi-sweet rosés, produced anaerobically in tank and intended for early consumption are delightful and refreshing. Produced as a light red in qvevri, the fruits are more subdued but the spiciness offers lift and complexity. As of 2004 there were 20 hectares in production in Guria, particularly in Ozurgeti and Chokhatouri, as well as in Imereti and Adjara.
Aladasturi
Red Wine Grape Varieties
Aladasturi
Aladasturi vines were widespread throughout central Georgia – dominantly Guria and central Imereti – but were largely wiped out by fungal diseases and phylloxera.
Originally trained to grow up trees, now it is mostly trained in a free-standing double-caned system developed in Georgia. Aladasturi does best in loose, well-aerated soils, with substantial lime content, often located on the lower parts of hills. The leaves are large; the bunches are of medium size, cylindrical, often winged, and moderately dense.
The medium-sized, deep blue berry is oval to oblong but rounded at the bottom, with thick skins and firm flesh. It is susceptible to powdery mildew and slightly resistant to downy. Budburst occurs in mid-April; the grape ripens in the last third of October. It is capable of high yields (8-9.5 tons/ha).
Single-variety Aladasturi wine can be made in either traditional or European styles. Despite the thick skins, the wine is not deeply pigmented. qvevri, it tends to be relatively pale ruby in color, light-bodied, with lean if delicate tannins, and alcohol levels on the shy side of medium (10-11.5%). The black cherry, pepper aromas in the nose presage similar flavors on the palate, with hints of smoke and tobacco. While Aladesturi wines can be enjoyed when they are young and fresh, good examples also have the potential for improvement in bottle. As of 2004, there were 44 hectares in production.
Ojaleshi
Red Wine Grape Varieties
Ojaleshi
One of Georgia’s oldest vine varieties, Ojaleshi, means “growing on a tree” in the Megrelian dialect of Georgian (ja=tree). It was the dominant variety in the mountainous district of Samegrelo in north-western Georgia, it was trained as a maghlari vine up persimmon or alder trees. Ojaleshi was widely cultivated in this manner throughout Guria’s central and upper mountain villages before the arrival of fungal diseases and phylloxera in the late 19th and early 20th centuries decimated vineyards. Current plantings are trained lower to the ground, as in Guyot simple or double, which lowers yields but produces higher-quality fruit. Ojaleshi performs best on the limestone soils of Salkhino, Tamakoni, and Abedati of Samegrelo’s Martveli District; and in Racha-Lechkhumi, on the mountain slopes overlooking the Tskhenistskali (a tributary of the Rioni River), and further East-Northeast in the village of Orbeli, it develops rose aromas.
Ojaleshi has round leaves with triangular teeth, and small, conical bunches of medium-sized, dark, blue-black berries. The grape has thick skins and firm flesh. It is early-budding (April 1-15), and late ripening – it typically is not harvested before the end of October or mid-November. Relative to other species of vitis vinifera, Ojaleshi is quite sensitive to fungal diseases, especially powdery mildew. Frost resistance is irrelevant, as frosts are rare in Samegrelo.
Typically, Ojaleshi is a ruby-colored, semi-sweet to sweet wine with a gentle bouquet of red fruits lifted by hints of pepper or spice. Alcohol levels range 10-12% abv, with 3-5 g/l residual sugar. With aging in bottle, the wine will gather complexity and approximate a dry red. A few winemakers are experimenting with producing a high-quality, dry Ojaleshi, or blending a small percentage with Saperavi (in the way that winemakers often blend a bit of Merlot or Cabernet Franc with Cabernet Sauvignon). There were 141 hectares in Georgia as of 2004, of which 137 hectares were family holdings.
Shavkapito
Red Wine Grape Varieties
Shavkapito
Meaning “vine with a black cane,” Shavkapito originated in Kartli, in eastern Georgia.
Its medium-sized, conical bunches typically have wings and moderate density. The round, medium-sized berries are round and dark blue. Shavkapito tends toward a bud-burst in the last third of April and ripens in the second third of September (mid-season). It has average susceptibility to most pests or diseases, and is a moderate to high-moderate yielder.
Shavkapito is rather terroir-reflective, as grapes grown on the valley floor will produce relatively full-bodied wines; wines the slopes will be lighter and softer, as those mountain and mountain foothills are light and fresh with delicate aromatics. Typicially, Shavkapito wines are of a light cherry or ruby color, with berry and herbal notes. They are vinified both in European and traditional qvevri styles. In 2004 there were 10 hectares of Shavkapito vineyard in Racha-Lechkhumi, Kakheti, and Shida Kartli.
